This tube fly was developed using colors from some very successful summer steelhead patterns on one of the local rivers.
This fly will be tied on an Eumer Crayfish hybrid tube. You can tie this
fly on any type of tube you like to help tailor it to your specific
situation. I like to tie the same pattern on several different styles and weights of tubes.
First we start our thread near the rear of this tube. The Eumer Crayfish tubes have a lip and an indention at the rear, I like to start tying just after this point. Once you have your thread started, tie in some Varnished French Tinsel. I used Flat Metallic, size medium on this fly. I regularly use different sizes and colors of tinsel so feel free to use what ever tinsel you like.
Wrap your thread forward, and stop it about an 1/8 of an inch (3mm) before the end of the brass tube. Now take the varnished tinsel that is tied in at the rear of the tube and wrap it forward, when you get to the point wear the thread stops, make 3-5 wraps around the varnished tinsel so that is stays securely in place and clip off the excess tinsel.
Now it is time to add some color to this tube fly. Select a blue Guinea feather and snip off the tip of the feather. Using your fingers to smooth the barbs in the opposite direction of their natural position.
Tie in the blue guinea feather at the tip, and wrap it tightly forward
As you are wrapping the guinea feather, pull the hackles back toward the rear of the fly and wrap it forward.
Be sure to continue pulling the hackles back as you make each wrap of the Guinea feather.
With the Crayfish tube there is a small lip where the brass tube meets the liner tube. I like to put a few wraps in front of this lip to help make a smooth transition from the brass tube to the liner tube.
With the first guinea feather tied in, now we can add our under wing. On this tube I used some Snow Runner hair that is now available from the Canadian Tube Fly Company. Icelandic Sheep hair works great as well, and is available from many more sources than the Snow Runner. However the Snow Runner is a little bit stiffer then the Icelandic Sheep hair. When tying in the Snow Runner (or Icelandic Sheep hair), make sure that it’s not to long. We want the under wing material to be slightly shorter then the temple dog that we are going to use to finish the wing.
With the under wing tied in, I like to add a couple of strands of Tinsel Flash.
Next we add another guinea feather, tied in at the tip, and tightly wrapped forward, holding the hackles back, just like we did before.
If you would like, instead of tying in the guinea feather, then the snow runner, and then another guinea feather, you can simply wrap two guinea feathers back to back, and then tie in the Snow Runner or Icelandic Sheep hair, and go from there.
At this point I add a couple of more strands of Tinsel Flash. Sometimes
I do not use any flash at all. I like to tie a couple patterns of the
same color with, and without flash.
At this point it is time to add some Temple Dog to finish off our wing. As noted earlier it is important that the under wing material be slightly shorter then the Temple Dog. This helps create a nice tapered look to our tube fly.
You can add another strand of Tinsel Flash on top of the Temple Dog at this point as well.
With our wing finished, and the last strands of Tinsel Flash added to the wing, it is time to tie in some Jungle Cock eyes. Select two eyes of about the same size. If they are cracked, you can apply some head cement to help repair them.
Remove the fuzzy barbs, all the way up to the thicker white part of the stem, this is a stronger section of the feather, and we will use this part to tie it to the fly. Some people flatten the stem with a pair of pliers to make it easier to tie into the fly (check out Jungle Cock, Selecting Using and Repairing from the Global Fly Fisher more info).
I like to tie in the Jungle Cock eyes at a slight angle.
With the Jungle Cock eyes added to this tube fly we are all but finished, and just need to add our whip finish, then cut the liner tube an 1/8 of an inch (3 mm) for the whip finish and curl it back against the head with an open flame (see Tube Fly Preparation – The Basics for more details on how to do this).
We now have our completed blue and black summer steelhead tube fly ready and waiting to hit the river.
This is the same pattern tied on an HMH Hybrid tube. Under each Guinea feather I added a metallic cone head in sort of a Russian Bullet style. The added cone heads help to get the fly down, as well as supporting each layer of the wing. With almost all of the weight in the front portion of this fly, hook hang down should not be a problem.
The above fly is the exact same format as the original fly in this article, but I’ve used red Icelandic Goat hair, along with red Guinea feathers. This tube fly was tied on a small diameter stainless steel tube from the Canadian Tube Fly Company.
This is another version of the same fly, with red Icelandic Goat hair, and a red Guinea feather, however I used a purple saddle hackle underneath the Guinea feather. This fly is tied on a Tubeology tube. The color variations, and combinations are almost endless with this style of a tube fly, and I definitely encourage you to use your creativity and have fun when tying this style of a tube fly.